Editing Electronics (section)

=Projects=
==Sunrise Alarm Clock==
'''Status:'''

* Was waiting on DC power jacks, copperplate boards and PCB drills that have arrived. Everything should be ready if etching works ok.
* Need to figure out which power supply to use (Bladeless Fan one?) and attach DC jack.
* Basic proof of concept ESP12-F program that gets the time via wifi seems to be ok. Arduino IDE sucks balls, need something that is unit-testable.
* Low power mode for ESP12F?
* ESP12F's keep dying and wifi OTA flashing is crap.
* Need to etch a custom PCB with an ESP12F socket and UART ports.
* Need to design the PCB in KiCad and get footprints for various things. MiniJST connectors.
* Need to future proof the design for expansion of other ideas.
* Soldered LEDs to the base but probably want to redo them to allow for individual addressing. This will let one light turn on at a time, needed because the lights have a minimum forward voltage, meaning a minimum brightness.

'''Ideas:'''
* Add screen to give time.
* Add light sensor to make sure the screen is off at night (if it is a lit screen).
* IR Motion sensor? Wave hand to turn on light?
* Blue lights for morning waking?
* Red lights for nighttime sleepy?

==DSO138==
'''Status:''' Managed to compile the opensource version and upload it to the device. The opensource uses the old R11 resistor value. Need to port the new resistor value to the opensource version. Currently radare2 sucks as reverse engineering the ARM thumb instructions. Heaps of the oscilloscope code is behind a binary blob.

 stm32flash  -v -b 115200 /dev/ttyUSB0 -w 113-13801-061.hex
 r2 ../src/firmware-src/libdso138.a -b16 -aarm -AA

* "Supports two types of TFT controllers (ILI9341 and ILI9325/9328)."
* Mine is a ILI9341...
* CPU is: [http://www.st.com/en/microcontrollers/stm32f103c8.html STM32F103C8]. Does not support DFU (usb bootloader).

* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvKC-4tCRgw Calling the STM32 SystemMemory Bootloader from your application]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUXuk2zFHfs how to use STM32 system memory boot modes]
* [https://stackoverflow.com/questions/26891432/jump-to-bootloader-in-stm32-through-appliction-i-e-using-boot-0-and-boot-1-pins StackOverflow Question]
* [https://github.com/libopencm3/libopencm3-examples libopencm3/libopencm3-examples]
* [https://github.com/libopencm3/libopencm3 libopencm3/libopencm3]
* [http://tty.uchuujin.de/2016/02/stm32-from-scratch-bare-minimals/ Post on bare STM32 dev]
* [https://henryomd.blogspot.com/2016/07/usb-hid-on-stm32f042.html USB HID on STM32F042]
* [https://developer.mbed.org/users/mega64/code/mbed-STM32F103C8/diff/e3d4af315dd8/targets/cmsis/TARGET_STM/TARGET_STM32F0/TARGET_NUCLEO_F042K6/cmsis_nvic.c This might be about the bootloader...]
* [https://github.com/xobs/grainuum Grainuum] Software USB stack for Cortex M0+ [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_tdJ9Lu7Zk33c3 No USB? No problem.]
* [https://github.com/lemcu/LemcUSB LemcUSB] - A purely software based USB peripheral for ARM Cortex M0+ devices

==GP2Y1010AU0F Dust Sensor==
'''STATUS:''' Build a basic prototype with Arduino that returns numbers. Need a standalone long term version for datalogging.

GP2Y1010AU0F - [https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Sensors/gp2y1010au_e.pdf DataSheet] [https://cdn.sharpsde.com/fileadmin/products/Optoelectronics/Sensors/Specs/GP2Y1010AU0F_20Jul07_Spec_ED-05G124B.pdf Alt DataSheet]

[http://arduinodev.woofex.net/2012/12/01/standalone-sharp-dust-sensor/ Example Arduino Usage] + [https://github.com/Trefex/arduino-airquality/tree/master/Module_Dust-Sensor github] - Apparently 3.3v isn't enough for the full range, but might be ok for real world usage... Having said that, powering it from 5v USB would be easiest. Is it possible to hijack a USB 3.3v data line for power?

[http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Interface-With-Optical-Dust-Sensor/ Instructables] - Mentions a 150Ω resistor and a 220nF capacitor.

[http://www.arduino.org/learning/tutorials/boards-tutorials/sharp-dust-sensor-gp2y1010au arduino.org tutorial] - Has a capacitor and resistor.

[http://www.howmuchsnow.com/arduino/airquality/ howmuchsnow.com] - Includes some air quality stuff.

<img src="https://cdn.instructables.com/FV7/AEZH/IQHIURV5/FV7AEZHIQHIURV5.MEDIUM.jpg"/>

<img src="https://cdn.instructables.com/F95/2YUH/IQHIUL3I/F952YUHIQHIUL3I.MEDIUM.jpg"/>

==ESP-12F Programmer==
'''STATUS:''' Have build the physical board to socket ESP12F's. The Red FTDI programmer is partially dead but can be used. Auto flashing without a manual reset wasn't working. ESP12F's keep dying and reliable flashing is fucked. Probably due to shitty flash memory.

[https://blog.attachix.com/live-debugging-with-open-source-tools-programming-for-esp8266-part-4/ Live debugging for ESP8266]

[https://github.com/esp8266/Arduino/blob/master/doc/boards.md#generic-esp8266-modules Bootloading/Usage pinouts...]

[https://github.com/pfalcon/esp-open-sdk/blob/master/examples/blinky/Makefile Blinky Makefile]
[https://github.com/anupak/esp8266-samplecode Examples]
[http://git.spritesserver.nl/ Some other examples]

[https://hallard.me/esp8266-autoreset/ Alternative auto reset, with capacitors...

[http://visualgdb.com/tutorials/esp8266/ JTAG Info]


* LM1117t Pins - Gnd Out In
* S9013 - EBC

[http://www.arduinesp.com/blink FT232 with Transistor Pin out] [http://www.arduinesp.com/getting-started parent] [http://www.falstad.com/circuit/circuitjs.html?cct=$+1+0.000005+10.20027730826997+50+5+50%0AL+656+304+720+304+0+0+false+5+0%0AL+656+400+720+400+0+0+false+5+0%0At+560+304+512+304+0+1+9.499948665035505e-19+0+100%0At+576+400+512+400+1+1+1.4592484383544339e-18+0+100%0Ar+656+304+560+304+0+12000%0Ar+656+400+576+400+0+12000%0Aw+656+304+656+336+0%0Aw+512+384+512+368+0%0Aw+512+320+512+336+0%0Aw+512+368+656+336+0%0Aw+512+336+656+368+0%0Aw+656+368+656+400+0%0Aw+512+288+448+288+0%0Aw+512+416+448+416+0%0AM+368+288+320+288+0+2.5%0AM+368+416+320+416+0+2.5%0Aw+368+416+448+416+0%0Aw+368+288+448+288+0%0A CJS] - Does this need pull ups/downs?

Pins:
* EN - Always must be high.
* GPIO15 - Always must be low (Unless booting from SD card...).
* RST - Normally high? It's getting pulled down by UART... Maybe it's a Schmidt trigger... Seems to bootloop forever when pulled low, but only after the FTDI activates it. FTDI Pulls it low then high.
* GPIO0 - Boot Pin. High when normal. Low for bootloader.

On pulling resistors "[http://www.instructables.com/id/ESP8266-Using-GPIO0-GPIO2-as-inputs/step2/GPIO0-GPIO2-and-GPIO15-pins/ A 2K resistor gives better noise immunity.]"

"[http://www.esp8266.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2499 esptool uses the RTS and DTR modem status lines to automatically enter the bootloader. Connect RTS to CH_PD (which is used as active-low reset) and DTR to GPIO0.]"

[https://github.com/espressif/esptool esptool guide]

===Flash Memory===
Manufacturer: e0
Device: 4016

e0 is unknown manufacturer
4016 indicates 4MiB (32Mbit).

"BergMicro BG25Q32 32Mbits"

===Chip ID===
Chip ID: 0x002c260b

==ESP as programmer==
Look into [https://github.com/jeelabs/esp-link esp-link].

* [https://github.com/jeelabs/esp-link/blob/master/UC-FLASHING.md ESP-Link Info]
* [https://github.com/beckdac/ESP8266-transparent-bridge ESP8266-transparent-bridge]

==Multi-meter RGB mod==
'''STATUS:''' Mounted RGB LEDs onto the multimeter frame. But no control circuitry. Was going to use an Digispark but a ESP12f might be better since I can program it wireless. Except they keep dying on me. The Current RGB LEDs require 6 lines of PWM if I want individual colours. Have some WS2812B's that might work instead.

==DIY Multi-meter==
'''STATUS:''' Planning

* [https://hackaday.io/project/11296-usb-multimeter]
* uGFX + ChibiOS
* [http://www.ti.com/product/INA219 INA219] - INA219 26-V, Bidirectional, Zero-Drift, High-Side, I2C Out Current/Power Monitor - Breakout boards are like $4 on ebay.
* [http://www.ti.com/product/INA226 INA226] - 36-V, Bi-Directional, Ultra-High Accuracy, Low-/High-Side, I2C Out Current/Power Monitor w/ Alert. - Boards are like $8 on ebay.
* [http://www.ti.com/product/INA333 INA333] - 
INA333 Micro-Power (50μA), Zerø-Drift, Rail-to-Rail Out Instrumentation Amplifier. Listed on ebay for $6, but other listing are $216 o_O, $35 and $13. Seems there is a huge range...

* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUhnGp5vh60 EEVblog #373 - Multimeter Input Protection Tutorial]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yuCXsT3_WRE EEVblog #853 - How A Multimeter Works]

==Repair==
===Dell 2504FPW===
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZE_R8CPtM0 Opening]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rQwCqatbLr4 PSU repair]