Editing 3D Printer (section)

===Settings===
* [https://allpro3d.com/quick-tip-start-and-end-gcode-in-klipper/ Quick Tip: Start and End-GCode in Klipper] - Custom prime line location
* [https://www.reddit.com/r/klippers/comments/x438nd/macro_for_loading_and_unloading_material/ Macro for loading/unloading]
* [https://youtu.be/FasWH3_gdlY?t=277https://youtu.be/FasWH3_gdlY?t=277 Use Prusa material profiles on all printers]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0OPx9yV_98 PETG]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PL_rSPZ3M8 How To Calibrate Your 3D Printers Extruder Esteps (Ender 3)], [https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#esteps How to set them in gcode]
* "I can do a decent benchy at 120mm/s with 60mm/s outer walls with my pla at 185 degrees. I've not calibrated anything but e-steps and filament. Mods have been Capricorn tubing, thermal silicone for the bed, and 3dlaq for the glass."

* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Z02BowhQwU Creality Ender 3 V2 - Simple Tips for Super Clean 3D Prints]

* "TUNING TIPS:
- For PLA, set temp bed to 60-65º. With lower temp PLA doesn't stick well
- Increase hot-end temp when increase speed: 210 is good for 100% speed, 220º for 200% and 230º for 300% "

 "Calibrate your E-steps! (Extruder steps). It's not that hard, just do it before you even print (I didn't). You can do the x-y-z calibration later if dimensional accuracy is important to you, but the extruder being out will make it hard to print well at all. You don't have to connect the printer to the computer and flash the firmware or anything- you can do it right from the menu on the controller. You measure the filament where it goes into the filament sensor, then go to Prepare-Move Axis- E-axis- and move it 100mm. Then you measure the difference, go into Control - Steps/MM menu, do some math, and adjust the E steps. I had to repeat the process 3 times as I got closer. Just remember to hit "save settings", which I think is in the Control menu. There are other web resources on it this so I'll spare the full explanation, but for a point of reference, the default setting on mine had it extruding 20% less than it should. That's huge! Also, make sure your temp is hot enough while doing this - more on that later."

====FAN FIX====
* [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22202 Cooling Fan Driver]
* Seem to need a diode between fan and mosfet.
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F1FQojoaNS8 Raspberry Pi Fan Temperature Control]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IG5vw6P9iY4 MOSFETs and Transistors with Arduino]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H8FrL37Z7xE Control AC Devices with Arduino SAFELY - Relays & Solid State Switches]

====PETG====
* [https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/k0jxxc/is_carborundum_glass_bed_suitable_for_petg/ is carborundum glass bed suitable for PETG material?]
* [https://www.reddit.com/r/CR10/comments/f7ofir/cr10_v2_first_time_experience_petg_settings/ cr10 v2 first time with petg settings]
* [https://all3dp.com/2/petg-print-bed-temperature-all-you-need-to-know/ all3dp The Perfect PETG Print & Bed Temperature]

====MultiColor====
* [https://www.reddit.com/r/ender5plus/comments/kb5oe9/klipper_m600_filament_change/ M600 macros]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_Mohd7JLzw Two Color Print Using Z-Offset] - Remove empty first layers
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KV2AjyowXX4 Colorful 3D Prints on a Single Extruder Printer // Artistic Phone Cases]